Kiffa Beads, and the Lost Art of Bead-making in Mauritania

Posted on August 25, 2013 by West African Beads

Ghana is modernly considered the epicenter for recycled glass bead-making on the continent, however, they weren’t the first country in West Africa to produce powder glass beads for the Western market. Back in the 1960s, US visitors to Mauritania discovered a thriving cottage industry in the Assaba region supplying beads to some of the biggest markets in the capital – Kiffa. Despite this, Mauritanian powder glass beads didn’t come to be known as “Kiffa Beads” until the 1980s when they became collectible among US enthusiasts.

Kiffa Beads are believed to have been inspired by early Islamic beads produced in Fustat, the first capital of Egypt, as far back as 1200 BCE. These early beads featured polychromatic designs and stripes, similar to those applied to Kiffa Beads. Since waste glass was generally in short supply in Mauritania during the 60s, artisans utilized old, broken trade beads and a binder, such as saliva or gum, to create new powder glass beads without the need for clay molds.

Mauritanian Beads were produced in a wide range of shapes and sizes; the most common being a triangle with curved corners due to its being associated with fertility. Triangular beads were often decorated with a series of triangles set within one another, along with a row of eyes along the widest point at the top. The “eye” is significant to the cultures of many tribes, and is believed to protect the wearer from the envy and malice of evil persons and spirits.

Bead-making in Kiffa reached its peak between the 1960s and 1970s, however, quickly went into decline thereafter with the passing of an entire generation of artisans. The craft itself was largely forgotten until the late 1980s when a group of aspiring descendants tried to revive the art. While their efforts were largely successful, subsequent generations could not match the intricacy and elaborateness of early Kiffa Bead designs. Today, those early beads are a highly sought after collector’s item, and due to their scarcity, have been known to fetch record-breaking prices at auction.

Bicone Kiffa Bead from Mauritania. P. S. Chemp/ Wikimedia.org

Agomanya Market – The Hub For Bead Trading in Ghana

Posted on August 18, 2013 by West African Beads

I’ve always wanted to visit Ghana. Not just to witness the fascinating process by which recycled glass beads are made, but also to wander the fabled markets of Agomanya and Koforidua – the largest bead and textile markets in Africa. Rumors abound about the treasures to be found among the many hundreds of stalls lining the streets of Agomanya, including 17th Century Chevrons, and the even more collectible French Cross Beads traded into the region during the 19th Century.

A woman demonstrates the process of bead cooking at Agomanya Market. The Advocacy Project/ Flickr.

Agomanya lies roughly 5 km from Kpong on the Somanya Road in the Eastern Manya District of Ghana. It’s primarily a center for agricultural trade, but since the 1950′s, has become rather better known for its textiles and glass beads made by local Krobo artisans. Every Wednesday and Saturday, artisans flock to the area from nearby Odumase, Kpong and Asesewa, to display their wares which range from expertly carved effigies of traditional deities to antique and contemporary glass beads in just about every color you care to think of.

Thousands of recycled glass bead strands are arranged by color on market stalls. Kate Yaeger Rotramel/ Flickr.

Beads are the primary allure for tourists to Agomanya. Strands of trade beads can be found for as little as ten Ghanaian Cedis (approximately $6), while strands of recycled glass beads tend to be much cheaper. Aware of tourist interest in Krobo bead production, some stall-holders offer demonstrations to show how old stained beads are transformed prior to resale. It’s actually a cunning technique known as “bead cooking”, whereby beads are heated in a pan of oil and water to alter the appearance of the skin, making them far newer and shinier in appearance. Ghana’s famous bead factory, Cedi’s, lies just a few kilometers from Agomanya, and provides a fascinating insight into the bead manufacturing process which has little changed in hundreds of years!

Antique Chevrons – just some of the many old trade beads to be found at the market. Terrie Shweitzer/ Flickr.

Beads, and Their Role in the Benin Festival of Nigeria

Posted on August 11, 2013 by West African Beads

Western tribal fashion is a melting pot of style elements inspired by African tribes, however, it is the Fulani who appear to have more influence than most. From their huge brass hoop earrings to their layered beaded chokers, the Fulani are one of the most decorated of all African tribes, and competition is rife among women who want to look their best. But, there are reasons for this competitiveness.

The Benin Festival, commonly held at the end of the rainy season, is one of the most important dates in the Fulani calendar. Traditionally, it was a time for giving thanks to the deities for a bountiful harvest, however, it has also evolved to become an important occasion for the ritual acquaintance of young, eligible men and women. The Benin Festival is a matchmaking endeavor of sorts, however, only the wealthiest families are permitted to take part.

Preparation for the Benin Festival begins up to six months in advance. Due to the weight of the heavy bead and brass adornments customarily worn, young women must learn to adopt certain postures, and dance whilst wearing their full ceremonial regalia. Often, the jewelry is so heavy, that the women must hold their arms above their heads for the duration of the celebration to carry the weight. Their hair is expertly braided incorporating hundreds of coral beads into the style. To the Fula, the bigger the hairstyle and more beads used, the wealthier the family tends to be.

Lastly, the necklace adornments must be chosen. A Fulani women will typically wear multiple strands of heavy glass beads – including Mali Wedding Beads gifted to them by their mothers when they come of age. Strands of mock coral beads known as “Ateyun Beads” are also worn, usually by women whose families cannot afford the real thing. The size and weight of beads worn is perhaps the most telling indication of a family’s wealth and status. Those whom lavish their daughters with the most glass beads are generally considered to be higher up the social ladder.

Large Mali Wedding Beads

Fascinating Facts About Nigerian Waist Beads

Posted on August 4, 2013 by West African Beads

African Waist Beads are commonly seen as a product of Ghana; an expression of femininity, a weight loss tool, and a means by which to capture the attention of potential suitors. It doesn’t surprise me the Yoruba of Nigeria are also waist bead enthusiasts. From their extravagant coral bead masks and headdresses, to their intricately beautiful bead embroidered sashes and belts, the Yoruba are among the most style conscious tribes in Africa.

The usage of waist beads is widespread among tribes in Nigeria, however, it is the Yoruba that appear to have developed them for the greatest variety of cultural and spiritual uses. Yoruban tribespeople believe that waist beads are extremely evocative, having the power to attract men, aid spirituality and health, and demonstrate the success and wealth of an individual. Waist beads are predominantly worn by Yoruban women, partly because they’re considered a symbol of feminism, yet also because it is believed they can prevent conception. It seems a contradiction of sorts that women also wear the glass “bebe” waist beads to rouse the desires of men.

Beads are a precious commodity to the Yoruba, which is probably why they have such a wide range of uses. While they are considered to be a tool of seduction, they are also used to emphasise a woman’s chastity or reservedness. Parents gift waist beads to their daughters when they come of age to communicate their purity to potential suitors. Married women on the other hand wear palm nut waist beads (known as “lagidigba”) with hanging discs to represent each successful birth – essentially showing off their fertility.

Other tribes in Nigeria also have some fascinating uses for waist beads. The Orisa, whom are strong believers in water spirits, wear waist beads as a protective amulet against spiritual attack from both the living and the dead. Women often hang charms from their waist bead bands to ward off the evil spirit “Akibu” (a mermaid), whom they believe may steal their fertility. Much like the Yoruba, the Ogoni also wear beads as a sign of wealth and status. Women are presented with strands of beads on their wedding day by their parents -often as a down-payment to her future husband!

Waist beads similar to those worn by Yoruban brides on their wedding day.

Silver Pendants – The Treasures of the Tuareg

Posted on August 1, 2013 by West African Beads

The Tuareg have long been regarded some of the most skilled metal-smiths on the continent, yet it’s only fairly recently that the true extent of their skill has been realized internationally. They are primarily known for their bold, geometric pendants fashioned from silver, which have not only spiritual value, but are also considered symbols of identity, conveying an individual’s origins and heritage. Tuareg pendants are distinguishable from those of Morocco and Ethioia in that they are almost always made of silver. It is said that Berber women have a deep-rooted superstitious fear of gold metal, which is why only white based alloys and metals are used.

Tuareg Southern Cross with the four directional points.

The Southern Cross, one of the most commonly traded pendant styles in Niger, has a fascinating history as an heirloom passed down from father to son in Berber families. The pendant is usually presented when a child ‘comes of age’ or reaches puberty, and is considered to be symbolic of his virility and cultural heritage. There are twenty-one different cross styles in Berber culture, each corresponding to one of the 21 towns or villages which make up the Berber ‘kingdom’ in Niger. All crosses feature four distinguishable points said to represent the four directions, or “cardinal leaders” of the world. It is customary for a father to recite the following phrase when passing down a cross to his son: “ I give you the four directions of the world, because you never know where you will be when you die”.

The Tuareg pendants worn by Berber women are far more elaborate than Southern Crosses, often inset with semi-precious stones such as carnelian, onyx, or amber. They are often square or ‘v’ shaped, and marked with geometric etchings and patterns which symbolize the sultan and/ or his palace, the four cardinals of the world, and the ancient towns of the Berber kingdom. The reverse is often inscribed with a quote, phrase or prayer which has a specific spiritual meaning to the the wearer – the most common being “God is the core of my being, I am one with God”. Contemporary Tuareg pendants are often decorated with niello enamel, as opposed to semi-precious stones, and often feature symbols pertaining to fertility, motherhood, the path of life, and death.

A typical silver Tuareg pendant featuring the central ‘sultan stone’, and geometric patterns representative of the Berber kingdom.

How Mali Spindle Whorl Beads Are Made

Posted on July 25, 2013 by West African Beads

Spindle whorls have been used for centuries in the cotton-making industry. Quite how they ended up finding use as a bead for self-adornment is still somewhat of a mystery – although it could have something to do with the fact they were traded extensively with North African merchants between the 17^th and 19^th Century. Another relatively unknown fact about clay spindle whorls is their durability. In fact, such is their resistance to damage and wear, they are known as “kolo” (meaning “strong like cow bone”) in the Bambara language.

The key to the durability of Mali Spindle Whorl Beads is in their production. They are made from the charcoal black clay found in abundance in the hills around Mopti and Kati. Once collected, the clay is broken down into smaller pieces for ease of grinding. The clay is ground into a fine powder using a mortar and pestle, then sieved several times to rid the mixture of larger pieces that cannot be broken down. It’s not uncommon for pieces of old and broken clay pots to be ground in with the mixture to improve its overall strength.

Once the powder has been prepared, it is mixed with equal parts water, oil and Gum Arabic to create a thick, malleable mixture that can be further shaped and refined by hand. The bicone beads are individually shaped by hand, then pierced with a sharp stick or nail to create the perforation hole. While still moist, designs are cut into the surface of the clay using a razor or hacksaw blade. This is arguably the most laborious part of the bead-making process, and only the most experienced artisans are allowed to create beads intended for general sale at the markets.

The beads are left out in the sun to dry for up to a week before they are fired in charcoal braziers, each of which can be filled with up to a hundred beads per time. After an hour or so, the contents of the braziers are tipped onto a mat of moistened sawdust. Artisans sift through the charcoal rubble and dust by hand to retrieve the beads, after which they are washed several times to rid the bead surface of dust and impurities. Once cool, the beads are immersed into a whitewash liquid made from ground shells to color the carved sections. This process may be repeated several times to enhance the whiteness of the lines. Each time the beads must be washed to remove any excess dye from the surface. Finally, the beads are left to dry for several hours in the sun, before they are strung onto sisal ready for sale.

Mali Clay Spindle Whorls

Ateyun Beads – The Beads That Duped the Traders of Old

Posted on July 14, 2013 by West African Beads

There’s no mistaking coral beads once you’ve seen them. But, those made in Africa for trade over a hundred years ago looked rather different to the polished orange-red spheres we use today. African coral is characterized by distinctive natural inclusions, curious bore holes and an a rusty orange-red coloration.

Since coral was scarce, these beads were considered particularly valuable by the bead-loving Yoruba of Nigeria. Their worth was also measured against their popularity among the Yoruba by traders from the North, many of whom would bring vast quantities of beads in exchange for animal pelts, brass ornaments and oils. As the supply of coral beads dwindled, the resourceful Yoruba looked to producing their own imitations from recycled glass.

Glass Ateyun beads differ somewhat to the Recycled Glass Beads produced in Ghana in that they are not producing using glass molds, or the wet core technique. Instead, the fritt (glass powder) is moistened with water and rolled between the fingers to form a ball. A twig is gently pushed through the center of the bead to create the perforation hole, and they are then fired in an above ground kiln – usually made of clay. Once cool, they would be washed in a mixture of sand and water to age them. The vast majority of Ateyun beads were tubular or donut shaped, and were always red in color. Such was the likeness of some beads to coral, that even traders were duped into believing they were authentic. Unsurprisingly, they often bought quantities from the Yoruba to trade with other tribes in West Africa.

Ateyun Beads, Evelyn S./ Wikimedia

Aggrey Beads, and the Deceptive Art of Bead Cooking in Ghana

Posted on July 6, 2013 by West African Beads

There are so many different types of Recycled Glass Beads produced in Ghana today. From the fancy hand-painted Powder Glass Beads made to look like old Venetian Millefioris, to annular wound beads, similar to those shipped over from Europe in the 16th Century, there’s very little you can’t find in the markets at Adomanya and Koforidua. But, while the Akan ethnic groups of Ghana are considered artisans in their own right, there are some who employ cunning techniques to transform the appearance of plain old beads into something considered far more valuable: Aggrey Beads.

The origins of Aggrey Beads are still widely disputed, in part because the term “aggrey” also means “coral” in many Akan dialects. Historians believe the blue wound glass beads were named after the blue coral found in the waters off the Gold Coast, however, tribes such as the Fanti and Asante refer to this as “koli”, rather than aggrey. The term “koli” is also widely used to refer to beads which are light blue in color. The discovery of light blue dichroic beads by archaeologists in Cairo, Egypt, offers the most likely explanation for the origins of Aggrey Beads, and yields some clue as to why they’re so highly sought after.

Opaque Blue Recycled Glass Beads

Aggrey Beads produced in Ghana today look much like the worn dichroic beads of old – largely due to the bead cooking technique employed by market dealers and resellers. Translucent wound or pressed beads are placed together in a metal pot filled with water and organic matter. The beads are then cooked for up to an hour over a charcoal fire to alter their molecular structures. This causes bubbles to rise to the surface, and the outer skin of the bead becomes darker and more opaque. Imitation Aggrey Beads can be found in a wide spectrum of colors, and may also be called “koli” or “cori” beads by natives.

Introducing Cedi’s – One of Ghana’s Oldest Recycled Glass Bead Factories

Posted on June 30, 2013 by West African Beads

Bead kiln. BCWorks/ Flickr

Have you ever wondered where your African Recycled Glass Beads come from? I get so many emails asking where Recycled Glass Beads originate, that I thought it was high time we dedicated a blog post to the subject. Well, more specifically, the tiny factory in Ghana, now supplying some of the biggest online retailers around the globe!

Located off a dirt track on the Sombaya Road, just two hours from Africa, Cedi’s isn’t exactly a well known landmark for tourists. A collective of small, quaint clay buildings with thatched roofs and billowing chimneys, the Cedi plant employs just twelve people across the three acre site. This tiny production plant was the brainchild of Nomoda Ebenizer Djaba, (known locally as Cedi) a bead-maker who learnt his craft from his grandfather in Odumase, Krobo. Keen to expand the family business, he developed the workshop almost a decade ago, and now supplies some of the leading online bead retailers in the US.

Workers at the site each have very specific roles. There are those who are charged with the tasking of grinding down recycled glass into a powder; others who prepare the elaborate clay molds, and bead-smiths, who are responsible for preparing and firing the beads in the termite kiln.

Despite its years in operation, bead production at the factory remains a largely manual process. The glass is crushed down in vast metal buckets with a heavy pole, and the kilns used for firing built by hand from termite clay. Sand-cast beads are washed in a mixture of water and sand to give them that beautiful eroded finish, and even the Fancy Powderglass Beads are painted by hand!

Bauxite Beads: A Semi-Precious Discovery

Posted on June 23, 2013 by West African Beads

Bauxite Necklace. Ann Porteus. Flickr.com

Semi-precious African beads can really add class to your jewelry creations. But, as I know too well, being able to invest in such valuable beads isn’t always possible when you’re first starting out. Ever one for a bargain, I began searching for beads with similar aesthetics to semi-precious beads that were a little less expensive – and then I discovered Bauxite!

Bauxite is an aluminium ore, and the main element for aluminium sheeting. In its natural state, it is usually speckled or mottled in appearance, with orange and gray deposits. Colors can range from rust-brown to beautiful sunset hues, like salmon pink. Of course, being resourceful as they are, the people of Ghana have long known the beautiful properties of bauxite. Being a soft mineral, it’s relatively easy to manipulate into cylindrical shapes and tubes – the most common shapes of Bauxite Beads.

Ghanaians wear Bauxite Beads for some of their most important religious rites. At funerals, it’s customary for both the corpse, and the mourners to be adorned with beads for the rather bizarre practice of funeral wailing. Relatives and friends of the deceased unite in chanting “We’re going to chew abo” – loosely translated as “we’re going to bite the dust”. “Abo” means “of dust”, and in most parts of the Krobo, these beads are called “Abo Beads”.

Despite the fact Bauxite Beads are still produced in abundance in Ghana, there are quite a number of ceramic imitations circulating online. So, how do you tell the difference? Simply dampen your beads with a little water and sniff them. Real Bauxite Beads smell like fresh earth!