How Mali Spindle Whorl Beads Are Made

Spindle whorls have been used for centuries in the cotton-making industry. Quite how they ended up finding use as a bead for self-adornment is still somewhat of a mystery – although it could have something to do with the fact they were traded extensively with North African merchants between the 17th and 19th Century. Another relatively unknown fact about clay spindle whorls is their durability. In fact, such is their resistance to damage and wear, they are known as “kolo” (meaning “strong like cow bone”) in the Bambara language.

The key to the durability of Mali Spindle Whorl Beads is in their production. They are made from the charcoal black clay found in abundance in the hills around Mopti and Kati. Once collected, the clay is broken down into smaller pieces for ease of grinding. The clay is ground into a fine powder using a mortar and pestle, then sieved several times to rid the mixture of larger pieces that cannot be broken down. It’s not uncommon for pieces of old and broken clay pots to be ground in with the mixture to improve its overall strength.

Once the powder has been prepared, it is mixed with equal parts water, oil and Gum Arabic to create a thick, malleable mixture that can be further shaped and refined by hand. The bicone beads are individually shaped by hand, then pierced with a sharp stick or nail to create the perforation hole. While still moist, designs are cut into the surface of the clay using a razor or hacksaw blade. This is arguably the most laborious part of the bead-making process, and only the most experienced artisans are allowed to create beads intended for general sale at the markets.

The beads are left out in the sun to dry for up to a week before they are fired in charcoal braziers, each of which can be filled with up to a hundred beads per time. After an hour or so, the contents of the braziers are tipped onto a mat of moistened sawdust. Artisans sift through the charcoal rubble and dust by hand to retrieve the beads, after which they are washed several times to rid the bead surface of dust and impurities. Once cool, the beads are immersed into a whitewash liquid made from ground shells to color the carved sections. This process may be repeated several times to enhance the whiteness of the lines. Each time the beads must be washed to remove any excess dye from the surface. Finally, the beads are left to dry for several hours in the sun, before they are strung onto sisal ready for sale. 

Mali Clay Spindle Whorls

Mali Clay Spindle Whorls

Ateyun Beads – The Beads That Duped the Traders of Old

There’s no mistaking coral beads once you’ve seen them. But, those made in Africa for trade over a hundred years ago looked rather different to the polished orange-red spheres we use today. African coral is characterized by distinctive natural inclusions, curious bore holes and an a rusty orange-red coloration.

Since coral was scarce, these beads were considered particularly valuable by the bead-loving Yoruba of Nigeria. Their worth was also measured against their popularity among the Yoruba by traders from the North, many of whom would bring vast quantities of beads in exchange for animal pelts, brass ornaments and oils. As the supply of coral beads dwindled, the resourceful Yoruba looked to producing their own imitations from recycled glass.

Glass Ateyun beads differ somewhat to the Recycled Glass Beads produced in Ghana in that they are not producing using glass molds, or the wet core technique. Instead, the fritt (glass powder) is moistened with water and rolled between the fingers to form a ball. A twig is gently pushed through the center of the bead to create the perforation hole, and they are then fired in an above ground kiln – usually made of clay. Once cool, they would be washed in a mixture of sand and water to age them. The vast majority of Ateyun beads were tubular or donut shaped, and were always red in color. Such was the likeness of some beads to coral, that even traders were duped into believing they were authentic. Unsurprisingly, they often bought quantities from the Yoruba to trade with other tribes in West Africa.

Ateyun Beads, Evelyn S./ Wikimedia

Ateyun Beads, Evelyn S./ Wikimedia

Aggrey Beads, and the Deceptive Art of Bead Cooking in Ghana

There are so many different types of Recycled Glass Beads produced in Ghana today. From the fancy hand-painted Powder Glass Beads made to look like old Venetian Millefioris, to annular wound beads, similar to those shipped over from Europe in the 16th Century, there’s very little you can’t find in the markets at Adomanya and Koforidua. But, while the Akan ethnic groups of Ghana are considered artisans in their own right, there are some who employ cunning techniques to transform the appearance of plain old beads into something considered far more valuable: Aggrey Beads.

The origins of Aggrey Beads are still widely disputed, in part because the term “aggrey” also means “coral” in many Akan dialects. Historians believe the blue wound glass beads were named after the blue coral found in the waters off the Gold Coast, however, tribes such as the Fanti and Asante refer to this as “koli”, rather than aggrey.  The term “koli” is also widely used to refer to beads which are light blue in color. The discovery of light blue dichroic beads by archaeologists in Cairo, Egypt, offers the most likely explanation for the origins of Aggrey Beads, and yields some clue as to why they’re so highly sought after.

Opaque Blue Recycled Glass Beads

Opaque Blue Recycled Glass Beads

Aggrey Beads produced in Ghana today look much like the worn dichroic beads of old –  largely due to the bead cooking technique employed by market dealers and resellers. Translucent wound or pressed beads are placed together in a metal pot filled with water and organic matter. The beads are then cooked for up to an hour over a charcoal fire to alter their molecular structures.  This causes bubbles to rise to  the surface, and the outer skin of the bead becomes darker and more opaque. Imitation Aggrey Beads can be found in a wide spectrum of colors, and may also be called “koli” or “cori” beads by natives.