Monthly Archives: August 2013

Kiffa Beads, and the Lost Art of Bead-making in Mauritania

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Ghana is modernly considered the epicenter for recycled glass bead-making on the continent, however, they weren’t the first country in West Africa to produce powder glass beads for the Western market. Back in the 1960s, US visitors to Mauritania discovered a thriving cottage industry in the Assaba region supplying beads to some of the biggest markets in the capital – Kiffa. Despite this, Mauritanian powder glass beads didn’t come to be known as “Kiffa Beads” until the 1980s when they became collectible among US enthusiasts.

Kiffa Beads are believed to have been inspired by early Islamic beads produced in Fustat, the first capital of Egypt, as far back as 1200 BCE. These early beads featured polychromatic designs and stripes, similar to those applied to Kiffa Beads. Since waste glass was generally in short supply in Mauritania during the 60s, artisans utilized old, broken trade beads and a binder, such as saliva or gum, to create new powder glass beads without the need for clay molds.

Mauritanian Beads were produced in a wide range of shapes and sizes; the most common being a triangle with curved corners due to its being associated with fertility. Triangular beads were often decorated with a series of triangles set within one another, along with a row of eyes along the widest point at the top. The “eye” is significant to the cultures of many tribes, and is believed to protect the wearer from the envy and malice of evil persons and spirits.

Bead-making in Kiffa reached its peak between the 1960s and 1970s, however, quickly went into decline thereafter with the passing of an entire generation of artisans. The craft itself was largely forgotten until the late 1980s when a group of aspiring descendants tried to revive the art. While their efforts were largely successful, subsequent generations could not match the intricacy and elaborateness of early Kiffa Bead designs. Today, those early beads are a highly sought after collector’s item, and due to their scarcity, have been known to fetch record-breaking prices at auction.

Bicone Kiffa Bead from Mauritania. P. S. Chemp/ Wikimedia.org

Bicone Kiffa Bead from Mauritania. P. S. Chemp/ Wikimedia.org

Agomanya Market – The Hub For Bead Trading in Ghana

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I’ve always wanted to visit Ghana. Not just to witness the fascinating process by which recycled glass beads are made, but also to wander the fabled markets of Agomanya and Koforidua – the largest bead and textile markets in Africa. Rumors abound about the treasures to be found among the many hundreds of stalls lining the streets of Agomanya, including 17th Century Chevrons, and the even more collectible French Cross Beads traded into the region during the 19th Century.

A woman demonstrates the process of bead cooking at Agomanya Market. The Advocacy Project/ Flickr.

A woman demonstrates the process of bead cooking at Agomanya Market. The Advocacy Project/ Flickr.

Agomanya lies roughly 5 km from Kpong on the Somanya Road in the Eastern Manya District of Ghana. It’s primarily a center for agricultural trade, but since the 1950′s, has become rather better known for its textiles and glass beads made by local Krobo artisans. Every Wednesday and Saturday, artisans flock to the area from nearby Odumase, Kpong and Asesewa, to display their wares which range from expertly carved effigies of traditional deities to antique and contemporary glass beads in just about every color you care to think of.

Thousands of recycled glass bead strands are arranged by color on market stalls. Kate Yaeger Rotramel/ Flickr.

Thousands of recycled glass bead strands are arranged by color on market stalls. Kate Yaeger Rotramel/ Flickr.

Beads are the primary allure for tourists to Agomanya. Strands of trade beads can be found for as little as ten Ghanaian Cedis (approximately $6), while strands of recycled glass beads tend to be much cheaper. Aware of tourist interest in Krobo bead production, some stall-holders offer demonstrations to show how old stained beads are transformed prior to resale. It’s actually a cunning technique known as “bead cooking”, whereby beads are heated in a pan of oil and water to alter the appearance of the skin, making them far newer and shinier in appearance. Ghana’s famous bead factory, Cedi’s, lies just a few kilometers from Agomanya, and provides a fascinating insight into the bead manufacturing process which has little changed in hundreds of years!

Antique Chevrons - just some of the many old trade beads to be found at the market. Terrie Shweitzer/ Flickr.

Antique Chevrons – just some of the many old trade beads to be found at the market. Terrie Shweitzer/ Flickr.

Beads, and Their Role in the Benin Festival of Nigeria

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Western tribal fashion is a melting pot of style elements inspired by African tribes, however, it is the Fulani who appear to have more influence than most. From their huge brass hoop earrings to their layered beaded chokers, the Fulani are one of the most decorated of all African tribes, and competition is rife among women who want to look their best. But, there are reasons for this competitiveness.

The Benin Festival, commonly held at the end of the rainy season, is one of the most important dates in the Fulani calendar. Traditionally, it was a time for giving thanks to the deities for a bountiful harvest, however, it has also evolved to become an important occasion for the ritual acquaintance of young, eligible men and women. The Benin Festival is a matchmaking endeavor of sorts, however, only the wealthiest families are permitted to take part.

Preparation for the Benin Festival begins up to six months in advance. Due to the weight of the heavy bead and brass adornments customarily worn, young women must learn to adopt certain postures, and dance whilst wearing their full ceremonial regalia. Often, the jewelry is so heavy, that the women must hold their arms above their heads for the duration of the celebration to carry the weight. Their hair is expertly braided incorporating hundreds of coral beads into the style. To the Fula, the bigger the hairstyle and more beads used, the wealthier the family tends to be.

Lastly, the necklace adornments must be chosen. A Fulani women will typically wear multiple strands of heavy glass beads – including Mali Wedding Beads gifted to them by their mothers when they come of age. Strands of mock coral beads known as “Ateyun Beads” are also worn, usually by women whose families cannot afford the real thing. The size and weight of beads worn is perhaps the most telling indication of a family’s wealth and status. Those whom lavish their daughters with the most glass beads are generally considered to be higher up the social ladder.

Large Mali Wedding Beads

Large Mali Wedding Beads

Fascinating Facts About Nigerian Waist Beads

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African Waist Beads are commonly seen as a product of Ghana; an expression of femininity, a weight loss tool, and a means by which to capture the attention of potential suitors. It doesn’t surprise me the Yoruba of Nigeria are also waist bead enthusiasts. From their extravagant coral bead masks and headdresses, to their intricately beautiful bead embroidered sashes and belts, the Yoruba are among the most style conscious tribes in Africa.

The usage of waist beads is widespread among tribes in Nigeria, however, it is the Yoruba that appear to have developed them for the greatest variety of cultural and spiritual uses. Yoruban tribespeople believe that waist beads are extremely evocative, having the power to attract men, aid spirituality and health, and demonstrate the success and wealth of an individual. Waist beads are predominantly worn by Yoruban women, partly because they’re considered a symbol of feminism, yet also because it is believed they can prevent conception. It seems a contradiction of sorts that women also wear the glass “bebe” waist beads to rouse the desires of men.

Beads are a precious commodity to the Yoruba, which is probably why they have such a wide range of uses. While they are considered to be a tool of seduction, they are also used to emphasise a woman’s chastity or reservedness. Parents gift waist beads to their daughters when they come of age to communicate their purity to potential suitors. Married women on the other hand wear palm nut waist beads (known as “lagidigba”) with hanging discs to represent each successful birth – essentially showing off their fertility.

Other tribes in Nigeria also have some fascinating uses for waist beads. The Orisa, whom are strong believers in water spirits, wear waist beads as a protective amulet against spiritual attack from both the living and the dead. Women often hang charms from their waist bead bands to ward off the evil spirit “Akibu” (a mermaid), whom they believe may steal their fertility. Much like the Yoruba, the Ogoni also wear beads as a sign of wealth and status. Women are presented with strands of beads on their wedding day by their parents -often as a down-payment to her future husband!

Waist beads similar to those worn by Yoruban brides on their wedding day.

Waist beads similar to those worn by Yoruban brides on their wedding day.

 

Silver Pendants – The Treasures of the Tuareg

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The Tuareg have long been regarded some of the most skilled metal-smiths on the continent, yet it’s only fairly recently that the true extent of their skill has been realized internationally. They are primarily known for their bold, geometric pendants fashioned from silver, which have not only spiritual value, but are also considered symbols of identity, conveying an individual’s origins and heritage. Tuareg pendants are distinguishable from those of Morocco and Ethioia in that they are almost always made of silver. It is said that Berber women have a deep-rooted superstitious fear of gold metal, which is why only white based alloys and metals are used.

Tuareg Southern Cross with the four directional points.

Tuareg Southern Cross with the four directional points.

The Southern Cross, one of the most commonly traded pendant styles in Niger, has a fascinating history as an heirloom passed down from father to son in Berber families. The pendant is usually presented when a child ‘comes of age’ or reaches puberty, and is considered to be symbolic of his virility and cultural heritage. There are twenty-one different cross styles in Berber culture, each corresponding to one of the 21 towns or villages which make up the Berber ‘kingdom’ in Niger. All crosses feature four distinguishable points said to represent the four directions, or “cardinal leaders” of the world. It is customary for a father to recite the following phrase when passing down a cross to his son: “ I give you the four directions of the world, because you never know where you will be when you die”.

The Tuareg pendants worn by Berber women are far more elaborate than Southern Crosses, often inset with semi-precious stones such as carnelian, onyx, or amber. They are often square or ‘v’ shaped, and marked with geometric etchings and patterns which symbolize the sultan and/ or his palace, the four cardinals of the world, and the ancient towns of the Berber kingdom. The reverse is often inscribed with a quote, phrase or prayer which has a specific spiritual meaning to the the wearer – the most common being “God is the core of my being, I am one with God”. Contemporary Tuareg pendants are often decorated with niello enamel, as opposed to semi-precious stones, and often feature symbols pertaining to fertility, motherhood, the path of life, and death.

A typical silver Tuareg pendant featuring the central 'sultan stone', and geometric patterns representative of the Berber kingdom.

A typical silver Tuareg pendant featuring the central ‘sultan stone’, and geometric patterns representative of the Berber kingdom.