Category Archives: Trade Beads

Agomanya Market – The Hub For Bead Trading in Ghana

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I’ve always wanted to visit Ghana. Not just to witness the fascinating process by which recycled glass beads are made, but also to wander the fabled markets of Agomanya and Koforidua – the largest bead and textile markets in Africa. Rumors abound about the treasures to be found among the many hundreds of stalls lining the streets of Agomanya, including 17th Century Chevrons, and the even more collectible French Cross Beads traded into the region during the 19th Century.

A woman demonstrates the process of bead cooking at Agomanya Market. The Advocacy Project/ Flickr.

A woman demonstrates the process of bead cooking at Agomanya Market. The Advocacy Project/ Flickr.

Agomanya lies roughly 5 km from Kpong on the Somanya Road in the Eastern Manya District of Ghana. It’s primarily a center for agricultural trade, but since the 1950′s, has become rather better known for its textiles and glass beads made by local Krobo artisans. Every Wednesday and Saturday, artisans flock to the area from nearby Odumase, Kpong and Asesewa, to display their wares which range from expertly carved effigies of traditional deities to antique and contemporary glass beads in just about every color you care to think of.

Thousands of recycled glass bead strands are arranged by color on market stalls. Kate Yaeger Rotramel/ Flickr.

Thousands of recycled glass bead strands are arranged by color on market stalls. Kate Yaeger Rotramel/ Flickr.

Beads are the primary allure for tourists to Agomanya. Strands of trade beads can be found for as little as ten Ghanaian Cedis (approximately $6), while strands of recycled glass beads tend to be much cheaper. Aware of tourist interest in Krobo bead production, some stall-holders offer demonstrations to show how old stained beads are transformed prior to resale. It’s actually a cunning technique known as “bead cooking”, whereby beads are heated in a pan of oil and water to alter the appearance of the skin, making them far newer and shinier in appearance. Ghana’s famous bead factory, Cedi’s, lies just a few kilometers from Agomanya, and provides a fascinating insight into the bead manufacturing process which has little changed in hundreds of years!

Antique Chevrons - just some of the many old trade beads to be found at the market. Terrie Shweitzer/ Flickr.

Antique Chevrons – just some of the many old trade beads to be found at the market. Terrie Shweitzer/ Flickr.

The Different Brass Bead Styles of West Africa

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Brass beads from Ghana

Ashante Brass Beads. Image credit: ZSM. Wikimedia.org

I’ve always been fascinated by the variation in styles of brass beads from West Africa. Given that nearly all are made using the same lost wax method of casting, it’s pretty interesting to learn how certain tribes have adopted the technique, and refined it, to create their own unique adornments.

Yoruba Brass Beads

Yoruba Brass Beads are rarely, if ever, made from pure brass. They are, in fact, made from a variety of base metals, then gilded with a thin coating of molten brass once cool. Yoruba beads are also far simpler in design compared to the elaborate cage beads produced by the Asante, often just a long, coiled tube with raised dots or

Wodaabe Tube Beads

Wodaabe Brass Beads are a rare find, but can be distinguished from most others by their elongated shape and large perforation hole. They are unique to other brass beads in that are produced as a hair adornment, and are often engraved to resemble a braided section of hair.

Igbo Bugs

Igbo Bugs are one of the oldest formats of African brass bead to have originally been used as currency for trade. They are an early type of spacer, so named because of their likeness to evil bed bugs which plague Nigerian villages during the summer. They are easily distinguished by their primitive appearance, and the bulbous brass ball fused onto the base.

Baule Brass Beads

Baule Brass Beads collectively define wound brass tube beads produced by the Akan people of Ghana and the Ivory Coast. They are easily identifiable by the huge Adinkra sun and moon symbols incorporated into their design. “Abode Santen” (the sun) is said to symbolize peace, reverence and the continuity of life, whereas “Osram” (the moon) connotes faith, determination and patience.

Filigree Beads

A personal favorite, Brass Filigree Beads are without doubt the most ornate and elaborate of West African styles. They are generally hollow, with a woven, or cage-like outer structure. Ghana Brass Filigree Beads often feature designs of symbolic importance to the Krobo, such as the evil eye and six-point star.

I’m always on the lookout for other types of Brass Beads from West Africa to add to my hoard, so if you know of any more, please do share.

The Significance of Beads Among West African Tribes

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There are few stipulations on the wearing of beads in West African culture. Both men and women utilize them for adornment, as a means of self expression, and to communicate their spiritual and cultural values. Trade Beads and Recycled Glass Beads have particular significance as a communication tool, and can be worn for one of three reasons:

To Convey Status:

Certain types of Venetian Trade Beads are held in particularly high regard by some West African cultures due to their rarity and color combinations. Green, a color synonymous with knowledge and power, was often the basal color of 19th Century King Beads, making them highly sought after by tribal chiefs. Single Krobo women also wear brightly colored strings of glass beads around their waists to accentuate the hips – with the primary intention of attracting male attention.

As a Symbol of Wealth:

Trade Beads have long been used as a form of currency among African tribes, and are still considered representative of financial security in some parts of West Africa to this day. In Ghana, young women adorn themselves with necklaces, armbands and bracelets made from glass beads prior to the Dipo “coming of age” initiation ceremony. Once the ceremony has concluded, the young girls perform a ritual dance to celebrate this coming of age, and flaunt the wealth of the family. In the North-East of Ghana, glass beads are also still presented to the groom as the bride’s dowry.

For Magical/ Medicinal Purposes:

Throughout West Africa, glass beads have long held sacred symbolism among indigenous cultures. Tribes such as the Mossi of Burkina Faso and the Baoule of the Cote d’Ivoire believe that the essence of their ancestors lives on in beads, and that by wearing them, they may benefit from the knowledge and wisdom of their forebears. Krobo glass beads decorated with eyes or spots are believed to protect the wearer from being harmed by evil spirits, and even enhance psychic ability!