Ateyun Beads | West African Beads

Western tribal fashion is a melting pot of style elements inspired by African tribes, however, it is the Fulani who appear to have more influence than most. From their huge brass hoop earrings to their layered beaded chokers, the Fulani are one of the most decorated of all African tribes, and competition is rife among women who want to look their best. But, there are reasons for this competitiveness.

The Benin Festival, commonly held at the end of the rainy season, is one of the most important dates in the Fulani calendar. Traditionally, it was a time for giving thanks to the deities for a bountiful harvest, however, it has also evolved to become an important occasion for the ritual acquaintance of young, eligible men and women. The Benin Festival is a matchmaking endeavor of sorts, however, only the wealthiest families are permitted to take part.

Preparation for the Benin Festival begins up to six months in advance. Due to the weight of the heavy bead and brass adornments customarily worn, young women must learn to adopt certain postures, and dance whilst wearing their full ceremonial regalia. Often, the jewelry is so heavy, that the women must hold their arms above their heads for the duration of the celebration to carry the weight. Their hair is expertly braided incorporating hundreds of coral beads into the style. To the Fula, the bigger the hairstyle and more beads used, the wealthier the family tends to be.

Lastly, the necklace adornments must be chosen. A Fulani women will typically wear multiple strands of heavy glass beads – including Mali Wedding Beads gifted to them by their mothers when they come of age. Strands of mock coral beads known as “Ateyun Beads” are also worn, usually by women whose families cannot afford the real thing. The size and weight of beads worn is perhaps the most telling indication of a family’s wealth and status. Those whom lavish their daughters with the most glass beads are generally considered to be higher up the social ladder.

Large Mali Wedding Beads

There’s no mistaking coral beads once you’ve seen them. But, those made in Africa for trade over a hundred years ago looked rather different to the polished orange-red spheres we use today. African coral is characterized by distinctive natural inclusions, curious bore holes and an a rusty orange-red coloration.

Since coral was scarce, these beads were considered particularly valuable by the bead-loving Yoruba of Nigeria. Their worth was also measured against their popularity among the Yoruba by traders from the North, many of whom would bring vast quantities of beads in exchange for animal pelts, brass ornaments and oils. As the supply of coral beads dwindled, the resourceful Yoruba looked to producing their own imitations from recycled glass.

Glass Ateyun beads differ somewhat to the Recycled Glass Beads produced in Ghana in that they are not producing using glass molds, or the wet core technique. Instead, the fritt (glass powder) is moistened with water and rolled between the fingers to form a ball. A twig is gently pushed through the center of the bead to create the perforation hole, and they are then fired in an above ground kiln – usually made of clay. Once cool, they would be washed in a mixture of sand and water to age them. The vast majority of Ateyun beads were tubular or donut shaped, and were always red in color. Such was the likeness of some beads to coral, that even traders were duped into believing they were authentic. Unsurprisingly, they often bought quantities from the Yoruba to trade with other tribes in West Africa.

Ateyun Beads, Evelyn S./ Wikimedia

West African Beads

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Tag Archives: Ateyun Beads

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