Agomanya Market – The Hub For Bead Trading in Ghana

I’ve always wanted to visit Ghana. Not just to witness the fascinating process by which recycled glass beads are made, but also to wander the fabled markets of Agomanya and Koforidua – the largest bead and textile markets in Africa. Rumors abound about the treasures to be found among the many hundreds of stalls lining the streets of Agomanya, including 17th Century Chevrons, and the even more collectible French Cross Beads traded into the region during the 19th Century.

A woman demonstrates the process of bead cooking at Agomanya Market. The Advocacy Project/ Flickr.

A woman demonstrates the process of bead cooking at Agomanya Market. The Advocacy Project/ Flickr.

Agomanya lies roughly 5 km from Kpong on the Somanya Road in the Eastern Manya District of Ghana. It’s primarily a center for agricultural trade, but since the 1950′s, has become rather better known for its textiles and glass beads made by local Krobo artisans. Every Wednesday and Saturday, artisans flock to the area from nearby Odumase, Kpong and Asesewa, to display their wares which range from expertly carved effigies of traditional deities to antique and contemporary glass beads in just about every color you care to think of.

Thousands of recycled glass bead strands are arranged by color on market stalls.  Kate Yaeger Rotramel/ Flickr.

Thousands of recycled glass bead strands are arranged by color on market stalls. Kate Yaeger Rotramel/ Flickr.

Beads are the primary allure for tourists to Agomanya. Strands of trade beads can be found for as little as ten Ghanaian Cedis (approximately $6), while strands of recycled glass beads tend to be much cheaper. Aware of tourist interest in Krobo bead production, some stall-holders offer demonstrations to show how old stained beads are transformed prior to resale. It’s actually a cunning technique known as “bead cooking”, whereby beads are heated in a pan of oil and water to alter the appearance of the skin, making them far newer and shinier in appearance. Ghana’s famous bead factory, Cedi’s, lies just a few kilometers from Agomanya, and provides a fascinating insight into the bead manufacturing process which has little changed in hundreds of years!

Antique Chevrons - just some of the many old trade beads to be found at the market. Terrie Shweitzer/ Flickr.

Antique Chevrons – just some of the many old trade beads to be found at the market. Terrie Shweitzer/ Flickr.

Beads, and Their Role in the Benin Festival of Nigeria

Western tribal fashion is a melting pot of style elements inspired by African tribes, however, it is the Fulani who appear to have more influence than most. From their huge brass hoop earrings to their layered beaded chokers, the Fulani are one of the most decorated of all African tribes, and competition is rife among women who want to look their best. But, there are reasons for this competitiveness.

The Benin Festival, commonly held at the end of the rainy season, is one of the most important dates in the Fulani calendar. Traditionally, it was a time for giving thanks to the deities for a bountiful harvest, however, it has also evolved to become an important occasion for the ritual acquaintance of young, eligible men and women. The Benin Festival is a matchmaking endeavor of sorts, however, only the wealthiest families are permitted to take part.

Preparation for the Benin Festival begins up to six months in advance. Due to the weight of the heavy bead and brass adornments customarily worn, young women must learn to adopt certain postures, and dance whilst wearing their full ceremonial regalia. Often, the jewelry is so heavy, that the women must hold their arms above their heads for the duration of the celebration to carry the weight. Their hair is expertly braided incorporating hundreds of coral beads into the style. To the Fula, the bigger the hairstyle and more beads used, the wealthier the family tends to be.

Lastly, the necklace adornments must be chosen. A Fulani women will typically wear multiple strands of heavy glass beads – including Mali Wedding Beads gifted to them by their mothers when they come of age. Strands of mock coral beads known as “Ateyun Beads” are also worn, usually by women whose families cannot afford the real thing. The size and weight of beads worn is perhaps the most telling indication of a family’s wealth and status. Those whom lavish their daughters with the most glass beads are generally considered to be higher up the social ladder.

Large Mali Wedding Beads

Large Mali Wedding Beads

The Significance of Beads Among West African Tribes

There are few stipulations on the wearing of beads in West African culture. Both men and women utilize them for adornment, as a means of self expression, and to communicate their spiritual and cultural values. Trade Beads and Recycled Glass Beads have particular significance as a communication tool, and can be worn for one of three reasons:

To Convey Status:

Certain types of Venetian Trade Beads are held in particularly high regard by some West African cultures due to their rarity and color combinations. Green, a color synonymous with knowledge and power, was often the basal color of 19th Century King Beads, making them highly sought after by tribal chiefs. Single Krobo women also wear brightly colored strings of glass beads around their waists to accentuate the hips – with the primary intention of attracting male attention.

As a Symbol of Wealth:

Trade Beads have long been used as a form of currency among African tribes, and are still considered representative of financial security in some parts of West Africa to this day. In Ghana, young women adorn themselves with necklaces, armbands and bracelets made from glass beads prior to the Dipo “coming of age” initiation ceremony. Once the ceremony has concluded, the young girls perform a ritual dance to celebrate this coming of age, and flaunt the wealth of the family. In the North-East of Ghana, glass beads are also still presented to the groom as the bride’s dowry.

For Magical/ Medicinal Purposes:

Throughout West Africa, glass beads have long held sacred symbolism among indigenous cultures. Tribes such as the Mossi of Burkina Faso and the Baoule of the Cote d’Ivoire believe that the essence of their ancestors lives on in beads, and that by wearing them, they may benefit from the knowledge and wisdom of their forebears. Krobo glass beads decorated with eyes or spots are believed to protect the wearer from being harmed by evil spirits, and even enhance psychic ability!